departures

today was my last day in BA - I went to the futbol museum - and finally made it to the Museo de Nacional de Belle Artes (MNBA) did a little shopping for last minute items and ate another delightful meal at Gran Bar Danzon - and am sitting here - having one last cerveza at the corner cafe next to my hotel - it has been my own little home base - for the past few days the guys in the cafe wave if I happen to walk past but don't come in. i'll miss seeing them for coffee in the morning- and while they may miss me too - one thing I'm sure they won't miss is the fabulous way that I butcher their language - every. single. day!

anyway - there's a lot more to write about - so I promise to try to go back and post things that are partially written - before I get all caught up in the goings on of home again.

I'll miss the summertime - I'll miss the good coffee (even in the worst cafes the coffee is still really good here), the desserts, the sommeliers, the medialunas (croissants), the beef (omigod the beef!), the fancy ladies always in their high heels and sparkly things (can you say bling? not better than a porteno lady) and so many other things I can't quite think of right now.

well, my taxi comes for me at 4:30 am tomorrow - so I'm off to finish packing and get a couple hours of sleep. the moon is beautiful on this my last warm and balmy summer night in Buenos Aires. Good night.

It's a bird! It's a plane! It's super--...no wait, its just dessert

...well not any ordinary old dessert mind you, this is another mind altering - ass kicking - fantabulous - I am completely at a loss for words to describe what it is - dessert!

ok - so I have a few new food rules - which I promise to describe in more detail in another post - but 2 of them apply here.

1. If you are in a nice restaurant (in BA in particular) and you ask the waiter/host what he thinks the best thing, i.e. his favorite thing, on the menu is - and he tells you - just go with it. IT. WILL. BE. GOOD.

2. If you are in a nice restaurant (in BA in particular) don't load up too much on the bread (though the bread is amazing - and there's a whole post coming - I hope - about the wonderful diversity of bread baskets across the city) or appetizers and try every once in a while to save room for dessert. YOU. WILL. NOT. BE. DISAPPOINTED.

ok - so tonight - I was at yet another restaurant - Gran Bar Danzon - which Lonely Planet doesn't do justice - they make it sound like its just a great place to do some wine tasting - or have a good cocktail - but they make it sound like the food is just so-so. Well, perhaps they didn't vote Sebastian onto their island when they reviewed the place. Sebastian - as it turns out - not only knows the menu (though I am not sure how he is SOOOooo thin) - but has impeccable taste...as my friend Tauni would say (mom, please excuse the french I'm about to use) - this guy's not fucking around!

so tonight - I save room for dessert. {sidebar -last night I showed up at gran bar danzon for a caipirinha, or two, since they have GREAT 2 for nearly-the-price-of-one happy hour specials, and being tired (oh the blasphemy) of eating beef (i know, i know, what. is. wrong. with. me!) I opted for the salad Sebastian recommended - and then the pork loin (breaking rule #1 above, by not just going with Sebastian's first recommendation of the rib-eye, but instead, his admitted second favorito, the pork}

Sebastian recommends "the block" which, when I read the menu sounded vaguely like a foodie take on the brownie sundae...I resist...I think "how many times can this guy be right?"...and then I remember how good all his other recommendations were (EVEN the squid, yes, it was squid salad...don't ask...it too was one of the best things I've ever eaten - and I don't really like the squid!) and then I remember the new food rule #1 - JUST.GO.WITH. IT. (it. will. be. good.)

I.DO.
(and no that is not me agreeing to marry anyone...well the dessert maybe?!)

so - there is something else I should now confess - if you follow food rules #1 and #2, in Buenos Aires the result - based on my limited amount of experience, there is a very good chance that you will find yourself eating a dessert that is like having sex. Yes it happened again. and no - I am not talking about any run-of-the-mill, i-think-i-might-be-getting-a-headache-cause-i'm-not-sure-i-really-want-to kind of sex. I am talking about the world melts away, words are useless, you forget all rules of conduct and physics, thought gravity seems to still work - but everything else - wow, where did it go? - kind of sex. You know like when...ok wait, we're not talking about sex, we're talking about DESSERT.

I had one bite - the room began spin (and no I wasn't drunk - even on the perfect...no really, I do ACTUALLY mean "perfect" dessert wine that Sebastian recommended to go with the, sex...er the dessert, but at this point they're sorta the same thing and I am still fumbling about for words) and there was no more restaurant, I forgot my name and where I am from and what I do for a living - and who my friends were - it was just me - and this big white plate with 2 beautiful blocks of chocolate/caramel with peanuts inside, covered in dark chocolate...see the words just don't even come close to describing the perfectly sweet, smoky, nutty, caramelly, fudgey heaven that i experienced when it touched my tongue. (kind of like that scene in the movie "Ratatoille" where all these little swirling fireworks go off when Remy feeds Emile the mix of cheese and fruit and the tastes combine in a lovely explosion in his mouth.)

it was warm...and silky...and...and...does anyone have a cigarette?

futbol y jesus

It being Sunday I decided to take in Argentina's two great religions: futbol (soccer) and jesus (er, catholicism)...actually I've been dying to go to a real game, and the jesus bit came in because my good friend Kerrin dared me to find the cheesiest landmark in Buenos Aires. At first I thought simply a picture of me at a Argentinian Parilla next to the giant sides of beef might get me by - but after thinking about it there's no way that Kerrin would fall for that so I'd have to up the ante. Then I thought the Palacio de las Aguas Corrientes with plumbing and toilets (yes, I went to the toilet museum - of course!) would do it but then I came across Tierra Santa, a religious theme park, and well I just knew that would be it...and it had everything to do with the animatronic Jesus who's resurrected (yes, he comes out of the mound of dirt, well plastic dirt) every 30 minutes or so, in a show for believers and non-believers alike...but I digress - first religions first!

I. River v. Colon

So, being told that it was likely unsafe for a tourist, let alone a single female traveller, to attend a futbol game - I followed a friend's advice and booked a ticket with a tour agency. You pay a little more, but they pick you up and return you to your hotel in B.A. and even better you attend the game with an english speaking guide, which was an added bonus, because on the short van trip to the stadium he told us a bit about argentines and their beloved futbol (everyone routes for a team) about some of the rivalries in the city (over 70% of the country routes for either River Plate or Boca, the two bit BA teams) and their nicknames (River Plate's stadium is in an upper class neighborhood so while people through Argentina route for them, they are called the "millionaires" whereby Boca Juniors fans are called the Spanish equivalent for "smell like shit" because their neighborhood is near the river that is now polluted and therefore smells like s---) and he gave us our instructions: We would be routing for River today - that means there is no clapping or cheering for the other team - even if they score - no way, nada, nothing, we are River fans for the day.

One of the most interesting tidbits I learned was that the River fans are called, roughly, "the drunk ones" and yet - there is no alcohol served in the stadium, that's right - no beer, nothing - you can get coca-cola, and ice cream or frozen fruit bar, and hamburgers - that's it. and there's also apparently a moratorium on the day of the game - no alcohol within a 5 or 10K radius of the stadium on game on game day. Now I am even more curious where the nickname comes from.

So then the game...wow!

I mean the futbol itself was great- being like 10-12 rows from the field in the middle afforded an incredible view of the pitch and all the action - almost making up for the fact we were in the direct sun all - not good for a pale girl from Vermont - so I must admit to going to find a seat in the shade for a while. That was funny, because I sat next to a couple older gentlemen there by themselves - and I could tell they didn't know quite what to make of me - a lone female - what? I followed our guide's direction and ONLY cheered for the home team- so I think after a while they tolerated me, because at least I liked their team.

But seriously the very best thing about the game is the crowd and the singing. I mean I've watched all kinds of world cup games on the tv (sorry that's "tele" for you british loving fans ;) and I've been to live baseball games - so I figured I knew what it'd be like - of course there'd be cheering. Nothing prepared me for this though...well, except for that bit Santiago mentioned on the bus ride over - about how the local fans, "hooligans" take their jobs very seriously, and they must sing and jump up and down throughout the game..."oh it is very serious, they would consider it unmanly if they didn't sing and jump for the whole time - it doesn't matter if they feel like it or, if their team is losing, if its raining, no matter what, they must."

and they really do.

we got to the stadium about an hour before the game started - and they had banners up along the edge of the upper level - but as the crowd built they threw these long banners from the top of the stadium all the way down to the pitch, and when their team took the field just to warm up - it started - singing and chanting in Spanish. it was amazing - one whole end of the stadium (like a third of the people) were singing - it would ebb and flow with the excitement of the game and at times like when River scored - the whole crowd was jumping up and down at the same time. I have always been fascinated by how a large group of individuals can morph in a crowd to be a single organism. It was beautiful in a way that I cannot describe the excitement - the love you felt they had for their team - and watch thousand of people jump up and down in unison - you can't plan that, its is just wonderful synergy.

I am sad to say, but I think now watching soccer on the tv, with just the announcers is going to feel like drinking flat soda :( I will miss the singing and jumping - that doesn't stop until their last team member leaves the field.

Am I allowed, I wonder, to give props to the other team's fans on my blog? Oh well, I'll tempt fate - first of all - there are these areas of the upper deck of the stadium, opposite where all the jumping and singing was happening - with high cement walls topped with razor wire. This is where safely cordoned off, the other team's fans were all 1-2 thousand of them in total, all with the banners and flags, doing their own jumping and singing, though in a more subdued fashion...but I have to say when their team finally scored they were almost as loud as the river fans who outnumbered them at least 10 to 1.

If you ever make it to Argentina - or any other futbol loving country outside North America - go to a game, even if you don't like the soccer. Its just SO FUN!

II. Tierra Santa

I have witnessed the resurrection! Ok, it was a re-enactment, but seriously. I was sitting next to a little old lady who only spoke spanish and she cried when the giant jesus closed his eyes and turned his palms to the heavens...oh but I seem to have started in the middle - sorry.

Tierra Santa, is a religious theme park, and while there's a lot that's just funny and odd (can I say weird without offending any of the christians reading here?), but I have to say - as religious theme parks go - I know I've only been to one - this one seems pretty tastefully done. An attraction for visiting Catholics - since there are so many in Argentina (and South America for that matter) - that boasts being both the first and the largest in the world is a life scale model roughly of Jerusalem. And for me was strangely reminiscent of those old plastic sets they'd have on star trek - you know the ones where they beam down to the planet and the stryofoam rocks fall and "crush" some poor character with no name (ensign #9?).

I have to say I chuckled a lot inside while walking around, and it started before I even entered the park out front in the grove of lovely, plastic palm trees. Inside there were all manner of camels, donkeys, and the occasional cow all sprinkled in and among little houses and shrines with differing religious figures, and while its mainly about the course of Jesus' life from birth (yes they have a nativity) through his life to his death (all the bloody stations of the cross) and the highlight of the tour, and the park is his resurrection where a 40 ft. tall animatronic Jesus rises right up out of the cavalry mound.

I have to give them points for including other religions- there is a small tribute to Ghandi, there's a synagogue and a mosque, and near the town square is a replica of the wailing wall, replete with plastic statues of Jews praying. It's strange and funny all at the same time. One of my favorite bits were all the staff walking about in a variety of arab clothing, from the woman at the front booth, right down to the girl I ran into the bathroom - with headscarf and all, she pulled on a pair of bright orange plastic gloves to begin cleaning the toilets. Who knew?

But like all religions what would it be without the contradictions and at Tierra Santa the contradictions are baffling and perhaps more baffling than the park itself. Every 2 hours there is an "arab dance" show in the town's main square i.e. belly dancing - to drums and synthesized music pretending to be "authentic" some of the tunes sounded vaguely like they had strains of tango - or strip show music in them. But that's not the funniest part - the dancers - while wearing typical head scarf, bikini top, flowing skirts and jewelry, they also wore leotard of white lycra, that actually covered their bellies. When I first saw them walk by I thought how very funny it is - let's admit that the arab's had dancing and sex - but we can't really show bare skin - so let's have it, but not have it.

...it gets better. the white lycra - was see through! what does THAT mean????

I was sitting next to a row of men - all faithfully videotaping the entire dance performance - it was like the only dance show they'd ever be allowed by their priests or their wives to see, and damn if they weren't going to capture every last second of it! I myself was astounded at how spectacularly bad the dancing really was - and was left yearning for the hirschman sisters to come kick some belly dancing ass! My head hurt trying to figure out how and why they came up with the idea for this show and the outfits, when I was saved by a cute little girl. She was standing at the very back with her little jean skirt, white tank top and little purple ribbons in her hair - probably not even 4 years old - doing her very best to imitate every dance move from the stage - and sometimes with astounding results that looked nothing like the belly dancer's move, but was some fantastic little dance move for someone her size. She was a delight to watch and I have to say, something inside me was relieved - as we had the next generation of belly dancer, right here in the mix.

Perdon...

in other words excuse me - things got busier here and I am behind on the posts. but do check back in a few days, as there are many great - mostly foodie bits - from Argentina. Including, but not limited to, some of the following adventures:

Miranda - not a planet where reavers were created - as many Joss Whedon fans would have you believe- it is near the center of the carnivore universe, with one of the best steaks I have ever eaten.

Patagonia Sur - not a place with rugged mountains and smelly trekkers, instead it is an enchanted little place in La Boca, where I was lucky enough to enjoy the best meal of my lifetime...the dessert (flan) was like having sex - and not, I'm talking about the I'm a college student and don't quite know what I am doing sex - I'm talking about good sex. very, very good, s - e- ...er I mean flan.

Olsen - yes Scandinavian -right in the middle of one of the best foodie-lands the continent - and perhaps the planet has to offer. the furniture - the music - even the damn salt and pepper shakers scream of some of the best design from Sweden? and the eggs and bacon laced potatoes make for one fantastic brunch - and did I menntion that it cost about $13?

Then there's the day long immersion into the two great religions of Argentina!

to be continued...

lovers on the subte

Some of you may remember the short piece I wrote about 2 young lovers on the tube in London (http://gmonstering.blogspot.com/2007/09/lovers-on-tube.html), well I was witness to another public display of affection, this time on the subte the subway here in Buenos Aires, their passion no less palpable, so I thought they deserved a post.

I have to admit I didn't notice them at first, one shorter than I, both in black, two goth teenagers, both with died black hair and matching streaks of magenta. Tattoos, piercings, black rubber bracelets, white skin, black eyeliner, silver belts, big black boots, utterly goth to a T. And yet both of them lovely and delicate, kissing by the door of the train.

Tucked barely out of the way, they kiss as if none of the rest of us are there. There is no train, grit, underground, noise from the tracks, darkness whizzing through the tunnel. There are no stations, stops, bumps, jostling people in their world. Ensconced with one another they kiss. softly gently, she leans over brushes the hair aways from her face, and kisses her again, this time pulling gently on her hips as if to bring the other girl closer to her, they are beautiful, and almost lonely in their own little world.

The train car comes to the next stop, jarring me out of my undoubtedly entranced gaze, I look around the car - and have to laugh, all the women near me seem to be purposely looking away, as if they don't see it, there's nothing to see. But right there in the middle of the car are two young army officers, in full uniform, sitting up straight as if at attention, but with their mouths agape. They can't take their eyes off them - no jarring stop or whistle or bustling business person or tourist can stop their stares. I want to dare to snap my finger in front of their eyes, or yell like Cher in Moonstuck "snap out of it!" but alas all I can do is laugh a little inside.

I gaze once more at the two girls as I exit the train at my stop. they have a tender young love that simply is beautiful.

pie, pie, er...ah...PIE!

Ok so, first for all of you that I have come out to as an openly discriminating pie eater....ok, I don't like pie! I'd bet you'd never expect a title like that...but all joking aside - that was when my entire pie universe consisted mainly of lemon meringue, mince meat (what is THAT anyway?!?) and a variety of pies with squishy fruit.

Well, like so many other times when one is on trips like this, my horizons have been moved, because now I am a lover of the meat pie. (homer simpson moment: aaaaarrrrrhhhhhh, meeeeeeat piiiiiiiiiiiee, arrrrrrhhhhhhhhh)

Ok, so as many of you may, or may not, know I have for a long time been in search of the perfect shepherd's pie - while working to perfect the one I make at home, I almost always try it if its offered at an irish pub, because to me its a good sign - that and the fish and chips - of the quality of their kitchen...mind you, not that a good irish pub has to even have a kitchen - with the first 2 qualifiers of "good" when it comes to irish pub are beer (preferably guiness flavored) and whiskey...but I digress. I may not be a lover of the pie in the American sense, but I am a long time lover of the shepherd's pie.

So would any of you other shepherd's pie lovers (Kirsten you know who you are!) believe it if I told you I had something even better the other night? They didn't call it "meat pie" that's me, they call it cazuela, Spanish for casserole, but it was beef and onion covered with potato and topped with a thin crust of cheese that I can only guess was something like asiago or romano, making the top of the mashed potato crispy, golden and yummy. Did I mention yummy?

So, besides the wonderful cazuelas and beef in general (more posts on the wonderfulness of their beef to follow), there is another food item here i would also classify under meat + pie: the empanada. They aren't the deep fried diet bombs they are in the states, but instead they are savory meat pockets (DO NOT think of hot pockets!!), much like the calzone only smaller. meat and cheese, meat and onion, just meat, sometimes no meat just cheese or vegetables, but the meat ones are especially good (do we have time for another homer simpson moment here?). I do have to wonder why there aren't empanada joints all over the mission? Are there and I have just been missing them? hmmm will have to look harder when I am home. Here, they are cheap- even cheaper if you buy them to go at the counter - and I mean like less than a dollar (US) each, and 2-3 with a soft drink (can you say orange fanta?) is less than $5 altogether.

Anyway - I continue now on my adventures both gastronomical and others - my apologies to those of you reading that are dieting - most of the most notable and interesting experiences I have had so far have involved eating.

go iceland!

so I found this out by accident, but have to say I think its great: yesterday, Iceland made Jóhanna Sigurðardóttir their prime minister. Check her out: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/J%C3%B3hanna_Sigur%C3%B0ard%C3%B3ttir. Not only is she a woman, but she is now the first openly gay head of government in modern times. To which I'd like to just re-state my earlier sentiment.

GO ICELAND!