I. River v. Colon
So, being told that it was likely unsafe for a tourist, let alone a single female traveller, to attend a futbol game - I followed a friend's advice and booked a ticket with a tour agency. You pay a little more, but they pick you up and return you to your hotel in B.A. and even better you attend the game with an english speaking guide, which was an added bonus, because on the short van trip to the stadium he told us a bit about argentines and their beloved futbol (everyone routes for a team) about some of the rivalries in the city (over 70% of the country routes for either River Plate or Boca, the two bit BA teams) and their nicknames (River Plate's stadium is in an upper class neighborhood so while people through Argentina route for them, they are called the "millionaires" whereby Boca Juniors fans are called the Spanish equivalent for "smell like shit" because their neighborhood is near the river that is now polluted and therefore smells like s---) and he gave us our instructions: We would be routing for River today - that means there is no clapping or cheering for the other team - even if they score - no way, nada, nothing, we are River fans for the day.
One of the most interesting tidbits I learned was that the River fans are called, roughly, "the drunk ones" and yet - there is no alcohol served in the stadium, that's right - no beer, nothing - you can get coca-cola, and ice cream or frozen fruit bar, and hamburgers - that's it. and there's also apparently a moratorium on the day of the game - no alcohol within a 5 or 10K radius of the stadium on game on game day. Now I am even more curious where the nickname comes from.
So then the game...wow!
I mean the futbol itself was great- being like 10-12 rows from the field in the middle afforded an incredible view of the pitch and all the action - almost making up for the fact we were in the direct sun all - not good for a pale girl from Vermont - so I must admit to going to find a seat in the shade for a while. That was funny, because I sat next to a couple older gentlemen there by themselves - and I could tell they didn't know quite what to make of me - a lone female - what? I followed our guide's direction and ONLY cheered for the home team- so I think after a while they tolerated me, because at least I liked their team.
But seriously the very best thing about the game is the crowd and the singing. I mean I've watched all kinds of world cup games on the tv (sorry that's "tele" for you british loving fans ;) and I've been to live baseball games - so I figured I knew what it'd be like - of course there'd be cheering. Nothing prepared me for this though...well, except for that bit Santiago mentioned on the bus ride over - about how the local fans, "hooligans" take their jobs very seriously, and they must sing and jump up and down throughout the game..."oh it is very serious, they would consider it unmanly if they didn't sing and jump for the whole time - it doesn't matter if they feel like it or, if their team is losing, if its raining, no matter what, they must."
and they really do.
we got to the stadium about an hour before the game started - and they had banners up along the edge of the upper level - but as the crowd built they threw these long banners from the top of the stadium all the way down to the pitch, and when their team took the field just to warm up - it started - singing and chanting in Spanish. it was amazing - one whole end of the stadium (like a third of the people) were singing - it would ebb and flow with the excitement of the game and at times like when River scored - the whole crowd was jumping up and down at the same time. I have always been fascinated by how a large group of individuals can morph in a crowd to be a single organism. It was beautiful in a way that I cannot describe the excitement - the love you felt they had for their team - and watch thousand of people jump up and down in unison - you can't plan that, its is just wonderful synergy.
I am sad to say, but I think now watching soccer on the tv, with just the announcers is going to feel like drinking flat soda :( I will miss the singing and jumping - that doesn't stop until their last team member leaves the field.
Am I allowed, I wonder, to give props to the other team's fans on my blog? Oh well, I'll tempt fate - first of all - there are these areas of the upper deck of the stadium, opposite where all the jumping and singing was happening - with high cement walls topped with razor wire. This is where safely cordoned off, the other team's fans were all 1-2 thousand of them in total, all with the banners and flags, doing their own jumping and singing, though in a more subdued fashion...but I have to say when their team finally scored they were almost as loud as the river fans who outnumbered them at least 10 to 1.
If you ever make it to Argentina - or any other futbol loving country outside North America - go to a game, even if you don't like the soccer. Its just SO FUN!
II. Tierra Santa
I have witnessed the resurrection! Ok, it was a re-enactment, but seriously. I was sitting next to a little old lady who only spoke spanish and she cried when the giant jesus closed his eyes and turned his palms to the heavens...oh but I seem to have started in the middle - sorry.
Tierra Santa, is a religious theme park, and while there's a lot that's just funny and odd (can I say weird without offending any of the christians reading here?), but I have to say - as religious theme parks go - I know I've only been to one - this one seems pretty tastefully done. An attraction for visiting Catholics - since there are so many in Argentina (and South America for that matter) - that boasts being both the first and the largest in the world is a life scale model roughly of Jerusalem. And for me was strangely reminiscent of those old plastic sets they'd have on star trek - you know the ones where they beam down to the planet and the stryofoam rocks fall and "crush" some poor character with no name (ensign #9?).
I have to say I chuckled a lot inside while walking around, and it started before I even entered the park out front in the grove of lovely, plastic palm trees. Inside there were all manner of camels, donkeys, and the occasional cow all sprinkled in and among little houses and shrines with differing religious figures, and while its mainly about the course of Jesus' life from birth (yes they have a nativity) through his life to his death (all the bloody stations of the cross) and the highlight of the tour, and the park is his resurrection where a 40 ft. tall animatronic Jesus rises right up out of the cavalry mound.
I have to give them points for including other religions- there is a small tribute to Ghandi, there's a synagogue and a mosque, and near the town square is a replica of the wailing wall, replete with plastic statues of Jews praying. It's strange and funny all at the same time. One of my favorite bits were all the staff walking about in a variety of arab clothing, from the woman at the front booth, right down to the girl I ran into the bathroom - with headscarf and all, she pulled on a pair of bright orange plastic gloves to begin cleaning the toilets. Who knew?
But like all religions what would it be without the contradictions and at Tierra Santa the contradictions are baffling and perhaps more baffling than the park itself. Every 2 hours there is an "arab dance" show in the town's main square i.e. belly dancing - to drums and synthesized music pretending to be "authentic" some of the tunes sounded vaguely like they had strains of tango - or strip show music in them. But that's not the funniest part - the dancers - while wearing typical head scarf, bikini top, flowing skirts and jewelry, they also wore leotard of white lycra, that actually covered their bellies. When I first saw them walk by I thought how very funny it is - let's admit that the arab's had dancing and sex - but we can't really show bare skin - so let's have it, but not have it.
...it gets better. the white lycra - was see through! what does THAT mean????
I was sitting next to a row of men - all faithfully videotaping the entire dance performance - it was like the only dance show they'd ever be allowed by their priests or their wives to see, and damn if they weren't going to capture every last second of it! I myself was astounded at how spectacularly bad the dancing really was - and was left yearning for the hirschman sisters to come kick some belly dancing ass! My head hurt trying to figure out how and why they came up with the idea for this show and the outfits, when I was saved by a cute little girl. She was standing at the very back with her little jean skirt, white tank top and little purple ribbons in her hair - probably not even 4 years old - doing her very best to imitate every dance move from the stage - and sometimes with astounding results that looked nothing like the belly dancer's move, but was some fantastic little dance move for someone her size. She was a delight to watch and I have to say, something inside me was relieved - as we had the next generation of belly dancer, right here in the mix.
No comments:
Post a Comment